Scottish emerald Luckenbooth pendant

The Scottish luckenbooth dates from the late sixteenth century. It originated as a pin that merchants wore in Edinburgh along the
“Royal Mile” who sold their goods out of locked booths.The pins had to be worn to show that the merchant had purchased
a license to sell their goods.

The first luckenbooth brooches were very small. A tradition developed in which the luckenbooth was given to a man’s
sweetheart on their betrothal. It was also considered a lucky charm, that would protect its wearer against the evil eye.
Among the other powers attributed to the luckenbooth was easing the pain of childbirth and ensuring a good supply of
breast milk when pinned to a woman’s petticoats near the left thigh. If pinned to a baby’s shawl, it will protect the child
from being stolen by fairies.

During the 18th and 19th centuries the luckenbooth became larger and more elaborate often inscribed on the back with
biblical quotes or the names or initials of the couple and the date of their wedding.
In the late 1800’s the intertwined hearts that form the lower half of the brooch came to resemble the letter M. Fleur de lys
and thistles also became common elements. These became known as Mary’s Brooches or “Queen Mary’s Brooches”. This
was because Mary Queen of Scots’s husband, Lord Darnley gave her one.

Most contemporary luckenbooth brooches are in the form of two intertwined hearts topped with a crown. In Victorian
times they were often set with garnets. Garnets were believed to have a positive influence on love and symbolized love,
constancy, and friendship.
The Victorian versions of the luckenbooth brooch were decorated with gems of different colors.
Scottish fur traders exchanged simple silver luckenbooths for furs with Native Americans who loved them. Some of these
brooches have been passed down for generations in those native families!